Kazan — summer 2014

Pow, jetlag wiped me out for a few hours. I wake up, walk through the town some more, but heading homeword along my street...

I'm starving. I give in a get another gyro. They are filling and relatively cheap.

But where will I get something to drink with it? A-ha! This place should do...

The bartender, like any good public service type during a deadly dull Monday, chats me up in hopes of a good tip. His English is stellar. He tells me his name is Ookpik.* Seriously? Is that a typical Bulgarian name? Heck no, replieth he, but that was my grampa's name, so I get it as well. Is he a student? Yes, one year from graduation, studying psychology. BTW, Ookpik's clothing is pretty typical for his age group. Here is his t-shirt.

The economy here is pretty weak, so any college age kid wants his clothing money to make an impression, hence Ookpik's colorful (and in this case, patriotic) t-shirt. The kids his age are almost all wearing denim shorts, or if they don't have those, then denim jeans with their legs rolled up to just under the knees.

Ookpik wants to be a policeman, which is why he is studying psychology. He comments that, sadly, the police are very corrupt in Bulgaria. He tells me a story of being at a club. At the next table they are sniffing cocaine off the table. He asks the waiter why this is allowed. The manager comes by the table and asks Ookpik into the bathroom, asking why he is making trouble. Later a police car pulls up. The manager goes outside and bribes the cops. Nothing happens. How much was the bribe? 2,000 levs, that is 1,000 for each policeman in the car.

Ookpik tells me that he understands the police's situation. They make little money, but if they accept bribes, then they can make a decent life for their families.

Y'know, when Ookpik first started telling me this story, I admired his selflessness for wanting to be a policeman. Now I'm thinking that his motives may be more pecuniary than selfless.

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* I actually recognize the word ookpik. It can be either an Innuit toy or a walrus baculum, depending on the Eskimo dialect, so this is a very odd name indeed.