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August 10th, 2012

A couple weeks ago on Bauman Street they installed an attention-getter that counts down the days to the Universiade. I noticed that the two columns provide a frame for the church tower behind it. Hence the photo.

Sviyazhsk, angels

August 11th, 2012

Today we took a trip to Sviyazhsk, the island from which Ivan the Terrible launched his third (and finally successfully) invasion of Kazan. The area is stunningly beautiful, which of course makes a grim contrast to what the invasion meant to the Tatars.

I'll include a few pictures and comments that entirely lack historical context.

First, here is me in front of a cathedral on the island.

Among my occasional historical puzzles is the effort to try to visualize the angels described in Ezekiel 1 and Ezekiel 10. Here are some frescoes from a 16th century church that try to capture them. First we have a view of an angel typical in Western representation.

And here are a couple of less typical ones.

Observatory

August 11th, 2012

To my great surprise, Danila and his family invited me to the local observatory. I didn't even know Kazan had observatories. Before this week neither did Danila. It's just a bit outside the city.

We arrived early. Walked around, exploring. Eventually we sat on some benches. One of the people who sat on the bench was a fairly awful looking man, obviously consumed by alcohol, entirely unconcerned with things like personal appearance. I thought to myself, “Well, he’s obviously a total loser of an alcoholic. Odd that he still has some interest in astronomy. Perhaps 10% of him is not a total waste case.”

We got tickets. The ticket coordinator brimmed over with her enthusiasm for astronomy.

Eventually we got to a building with a room with a large flat-screen TV hooked up to a DVD player. The alcoholic from the bench got up and I thought, “Oh, great. Now security is going to have to throw the sot out.” But after a minute or two, a couple things became apparent.

First off, he was not a man, but an old woman, as fairly well indicated by her saggy breasts, despite a voice made gruff with age (which I had previously assumed due to alcohol and cigarettes). Second of all, she was an encyclopedia of astronomical information. Third of all, after about five minutes it was clear she had an engaging sense of humor, and after about another minute it was clear that she had an enormous passion for astronomy. Ohmigoodness, never in my Russian experience have I heard someone speak with such passion and individual joy and warmth on a subject. It was one of the moments in life where I was grateful that I have learned to hold my first impressons/prejudices lightly, ready to adjust them with new information. This was exactly the kind of person you want in public education: capable of saying things in laymen's terms, full of joy and interest.

Thence we went outside to look at the very snazzy sundial, although it was night, and one of the observatory workers brought it to life with a flashlight and stories. And then she added some amusing horoscope stuff. I was impressed by the contrast. Back in the States an astronomer would have been at pains to distance himself from astrology, but here the speaker assumed the listener could determine the difference between baseless astrology and scientific astronomy. I appreciate that attitude... or perhaps there is another explanation. Perhaps she just buys the idea that astrology is significant. If you are an American reading this, you will probably assume I'm writing that in jest. I am not. Once you get enough experience in life, you discover that even scientists don't base all their opinions on science, and in fact I would bet that the vast majority of their actions/opinions have nothing to do with rationalism at all.

An American who has just read that last sentence might assume I have no respect for science. That, too, would be a mistake. I think it is vitally important. I just don't think it solves all of humanities problems.

Later we got to observe old and new telescopes. Through the evening I saw three satellites, two meteors, one galaxy (Andromeda) and various stars. Very cool.

Astronomy... it always leaves one with the feeling of how very small we are compared to the incomprehensible size of the universe. I like that feeling. Not very practical, though. In the end that feeling doesn't help all that much in trying to learn how to love one's neighbor as oneself.

Soccer match

August 12th, 2012

This evening I attended a soccer match between one of Kazan's major teams, Rubin, and Moscow's team, Dynamo.

I didn't want to go. Organized sports caused me nothing but grief in childhood, and as an adult they have never given me a single moment's joy. But we had tickets, and soccer is big in Russia. To never attend a match in Russia is to miss out on something significant about Russian culture.

The stadium is right near the Kazan Kremlin. The crowd was full of life. Families and friends seemed to enjoy themselves. The south end of the stadium was filled with fans who chanted without ceasing throughout the game, which ended in Rubin's favor, 2-0.

I'm glad I went. And I really don't need to ever go again.

Wonderful evening, approaching departure, sad, happy

August 13th, 2012

Another marvelous evening of hospitality at the Osipovs, this time in the company of John, who took an off-sequence Rus 102 with me last fall. Damn, but the kid is doing great with his Russian.

It's odd. Mentally I'm already halfway not here in Russia anymore. My mind is already back in the States. And at the same time I don't want to leave. I have begun to learn happiness in Russia.

Five of our students today took online tests to measure their post-program results. Can you imagine taking a computerized, online oral proficiency interview? They call it an OPI-c.